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Badger
11-29-2007, 01:23 PM
Ok, here is a how to core your cans my way, did them last weekend, so here we go.

First remove cans carefully and use a 6mm drill bit to remove the 15 pop rivets in each can, this includes the one on the mounting strap, you will need good sharp drill bits and probably about 4 off them, the rivets are sore on them, just drill the rivet tops off and the rest of the rivet falls inside the can, they will be removed later.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics001.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics002.jpg

once all rivets are removed the next step is to remove the link pipe end, i used a large screwdriver for this, but i would use something a bit less prone to mark the metal.

I would like top point out that as my cans were for a track bike i was not to worried about some scratches or marks etc., so it is worth taping up the can sleeves with duck tape or similar to protect them from marks etc

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics003.jpg

Once this is removed you will see the cat (honeycombed part) which is a pain to remove, the platinum is bloody hard stuff

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics004.jpg

To remove the cat i used a good sharp cold chisel and went round the edges and went deeper and deeper with the chisel till the cat broke away from the casing, clean the inside of the casing to remove most of the platinum as this is where your core will insert.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics008.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics009.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics010.jpg

this is the cat removed and you can see the inside of the casing

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics011.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics012.jpg

Next step is to remove the end cap the same way, the end cap has all the silencing core attached to it, this will come out in one piece when the end cap is removed

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics005.jpg

Now remove all exhaust packing and put to the side, don't destroy this as it will be used again
Warning-the packing is nasty stuff, wear gloves and a mask as this stuff will go for you

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics006.jpg

at this stage you should have this

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics007.jpg

now for the cutting, the end cap has to be cut from the rest of the silencing core, you need to cut at the back of the weld (towards the rear of the can), you should cut at an angle as can be seen from these pics

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics013.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics014.jpg

what you need to end up with is the end cap removed as can bee seen here

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics015.jpg

once this is done you will need to tidy up the end cap edges so it is neat and not covered in sharp edges, i used the die grinder and a dremel to finish it off.

You should now have the link pipe, the clean end cap, two straps, the sleeve and the packing.

Next stage is to drill four 3mm holes in the sleeve where the cat came out of, the new core slips in here and i attached it with 4 small self tappers as can be seen here

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics016.jpg

the new core has to be cut to size for the can and will also need to be cut at a slight angle to fit neatly into the end cap, there is a bit of trial and error required here to get the correct size for the new core, the new core should fit snugly inside the end cap spout, you might need to grind away small bits of weld inside the spout to allow the new core to fit as it is a tight fit, this becomes apparent as you do the job.

I did all my cutting and put the whole thing including the sleeve together a few times to get the correct length for cutting the new core, as i said trial and error here and patience.

Once i had the core cut and fitted correctly i then wrapped the old sheet of packing round the new core tightly and used a fine copper wire to bind and hold in place as can be seen here

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics017.jpg

next stage is to wrap the new packing sheet round the old stuff you have just put on, again wrap tightly and secure with a fine wire or similar

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics018.jpg

now slide the sleeve back on and centre the core so that it will fit inside the end cap, if you have gaps in the sleeve you should pack them with packing

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics019.jpg

and then push the end cap into place making sure the core is fitting snugly inside the spout as can be seen here

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics021.jpg

now you need to make sure the sleeve is seating and lining up correctly with the holes in the link pipe end and the end cap itself, once this is good then slip on the strap and start fitting your new rivets and then remove your protection tape and admire your handywork.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics022.jpg

Fit them to the bike and be prepared for some music

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics023-1.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/this%20n%20that/newtrackbikecoringpics024.jpg

Notes on tools required for the job, Drill and bits, die grinder, pop riveter, rubber mallet, claw hammer, pliers, screwdrivers, cold chisel, good gloves as there is a lot of sharp metal at stages throughout, goggles, dremel if you have it, it is handy for cleaning metal up etc., duct tape and patience.

Parts required, i bought two cores at 600mm long by 2.5" in diameter(i am sure 500mm would be enough length) two rolls of packing and you will need 30 4.8mm rivets, i think aluminium is probably best as they are easier to remove again if need be

i bought all my parts from these guys at a cost of £34 plus postage

http://www.performanceracingparts.co.uk/catalogue/products.asp?cat=3

They are pretty loud as you would expect because you have just built yourself a race can with a 63.5mm core and spout, it is fairly easy to do, but you do have to have a knack for working with tools etc.

Happy coring:thumbup

Badger
11-29-2007, 01:24 PM
Crash, move this to where you want it mate:thumbup

Sergi
11-29-2007, 09:57 PM
nice work! thanks for such an illustrated report

rsvr47
11-29-2007, 11:06 PM
Hey good work badger:thumbup

Arleyal
11-30-2007, 04:15 AM
Nice write up Badger. AL

Gasboy
11-30-2007, 04:32 AM
NICE :thumbup

DaveRSV
11-30-2007, 05:21 AM
Can't beat a good set of pictures to illuminate the words! Nice one Badger.

rusty
11-30-2007, 11:19 AM
Nice job Badger,would you have to remap?

Badger
11-30-2007, 11:54 AM
Rusty, i will be getting it remapped as the engine is hunting with them fitted, all it needs is some dyno time, the bike has a PC111 already, i took off my Smaltmoto full system which the bike was custom mapped for, so there will be some fine tuning needed.

Thanks for the thanks guys, just did this so it might help any that were considering it and not to sure, having pics of the job before you start is a big help IMO, one plus point is the cans still have all the legal markings on them if you get pulled:thumbup

monkeypixie@hotmail.co.uk
01-04-2008, 12:25 PM
sorry to interfere,just a quick tip when repacking your exhaust.Rap a 5/6mm layer of stainless steel wool around the baffle before the glass fibre as it will increase the intervals between repacking.(Make sure the wool is tightly rapped as gaps will cause hot spots)

torben hommel
01-14-2008, 10:08 AM
did it on my 2006 factory,but only with a 43 mm perforated pipe,noisy enough,torben nz

motohead
02-27-2008, 03:22 AM
Nice work Badger! What if I leave the cat in, would it make a big difference in sound and performance?
New factory05 owner...

Al White
05-19-2008, 04:22 AM
Very interesting thread...not sure if I have the confidence to try on my cans though....is there anywhere that will core an existing set of cans for a price?

crashtd
06-29-2008, 02:35 PM
Crash, move this to where you want it mate:thumbup

I'm late, but this is an awesome write up Badger :hail :hail :hail

-:banana

missile
07-10-2008, 06:50 AM
Fantastic write up.

Can you give me some idea of how loud they are over standard cans.

Are they loud, deafening, break windows at 100 yards, or make your ears blead.

heroblob
07-10-2008, 08:12 AM
You have seen on the tv this week about the third tower that fell on 9/11, supposedly blown up by the American government.
Well they didn't use explosives, they had someone in the underground car park start up their rsvr with cored cans.
You saw the results on the tv. you have been warned.:thumbup

motohead
07-13-2008, 10:52 PM
Just cored my cans and they are LOUD!!! Not ear deafening but a very deep rumble that shakes everything around. It is the most beautiful sound to come out of a twin!
CWalker is going to make me some baffles for the longer rides.

I GOT A FACTORY MILLE
08-08-2008, 11:12 PM
many thanks for the very good and detailed instructions,just one question if i core my cans do i need to remap or will i get away without mate,many thanks for your help.

LENWAA!!
08-09-2008, 03:26 AM
well illustrated and interesting thread:thumbup

AusRSV
08-09-2008, 03:59 AM
A1 class quality job there Badger ol mate..love that mambo size centre core. :thumbup

Badger
08-09-2008, 08:16 AM
many thanks for the very good and detailed instructions,just one question if i core my cans do i need to remap or will i get away without mate,many thanks for your help.

If it's not on the latest map 2 get it done, the best option is a PC111 and get a custom map done to suit your bike and mods:thumbup

beechy
08-09-2008, 12:11 PM
gotta admit i just tend to buy bikes and ride them as they are (too tight to buy lots of mods). heard the cored cans and they sound so awesome i was wondering how much would getting remap and set up cost?? any ideas??
secondly i love the sound but can't quantify the actual volume - how likely is it that i'd get pulled riding with them on the road??

AREESSMILL
08-23-2008, 01:48 PM
Can a standard RSV can be cored, you know the large heavy shitey thing they put on as standard.

04RSVR
08-28-2008, 12:35 PM
i have 2 sets i'm going to try this weekend. news at 11.....

I GOT A FACTORY MILLE
08-30-2008, 04:51 AM
hi mate do you know anywhere i can get an alternator for a 04 factory mille

shaymas
01-08-2009, 12:21 AM
sweet will try on my factory 2008

Badger
01-13-2009, 11:27 AM
Any of you guys managed to do them yet then?

ukcustombike
01-14-2009, 01:04 PM
Any of you guys managed to do them yet then?

hi badger

Excellent write up mate. Really impressed. I see it was done quite sometime ago well before i was a member of this forum.

Had my 04 rsv for just over 2 months now, it came fitted with stainless race cans made by the carbon can company. Not the best i know but better than the originals. Not even sure if the bike is set up properly for them.

Im gutted the bloke i brought the bike from didnt have the originals other wise this would be a perfect little project for me in my dinner break at work (machine shop).

Im deffo gonna look out for some second hand originals and give it a whirl.

Thanks for the details description :thumbup

Badger
01-14-2009, 01:33 PM
hi badger

Excellent write up mate. Really impressed. I see it was done quite sometime ago well before i was a member of this forum.

Had my 04 rsv for just over 2 months now, it came fitted with stainless race cans made by the carbon can company. Not the best i know but better than the originals. Not even sure if the bike is set up properly for them.

Im gutted the bloke i brought the bike from didnt have the originals other wise this would be a perfect little project for me in my dinner break at work (machine shop).

Im deffo gonna look out for some second hand originals and give it a whirl.

Thanks for the details description :thumbup

Glad to be of help mate, standard cans can be picked up pretty cheap, but make sure they are from an 04 or 05 model, after i came off my 04 and trashed the cored cans i thought i would just core the standard cans of my 06 bike as it is just for track use (the 04 that is), i discovered the 06 onwards cans do not fit the 04/05 model without a bit of modding.

Just a quick tip that will maybe save you some hassle:thumbup

deadhand
02-23-2009, 10:28 AM
Oh, its great timing I saw this thread! I picked up a spare set of stock cans from a friend specifically for this mod. And now I have my instruction manual! Thanks!!

deadhand
02-24-2009, 12:11 PM
Another thought; I'd like to shorten the over all length of the cans. Would that make them too loud?

Badger
02-24-2009, 12:53 PM
I would personally not make them shorter as it will more than likely affect the performance.

deadhand
04-29-2009, 10:18 AM
I finished the mod a few weeks ago and am very happy with the results. They were too loud at first, but have broken in and quieted down a bit. Still very loud, but I'm not worried about getting pulled over any more.

I got my perforated cores, adapters, rivets and silent sport muffler packing from Area P in Santa Ana. Total cost was about $170.00 :)

Excellent write up! I printed it out and used it every step of the way. I left my cats in btw. Oh and had it switched to map 2!

Here is a clip of before:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmYdbC2tmtc

Here is a clip after:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC52G69g8_M

Badger
04-29-2009, 11:02 AM
Glad to be of help mate, you seem a happy man now:thumbup

Funny clips BTW:biggrin

foxy
04-30-2009, 03:55 AM
Eyup Badger, I've just bought an 07 Mille R, after owning an 02 Mille for 5 years. I can't afford a decent set of cans yet, so this might be the way to go for me, before I go to the TT. You said the later models have different cans, is that just for fitting, or is the mod different in any way? You also mention going to map 2. On my 02 I just snipped the wire to the ECU, is it the same with the new shaped ones? Also, on the old one, i dropped a tooth on the front sprocket, for the road. Is it summat to do on the new mille's, because mine seems a bit jerky in traffic. Hope I'm not being a pain, but only had bike a month, and although I did loads of mods to the 02 mille,I'd like to know what the best mods are for my 07 mille.
Cheers,
Foxy

Badger
04-30-2009, 10:29 AM
Foxy, i don't think the cans internals are different so the mod should be the same, at the end of the day you are just turning your standard cans into race cans, although they will still be a bit heavier.

You must get an Aprilia dealer to convert to map2 as it needs an axone to do this job, allow about £30 for this.

I run 15/43 on my road bike, but i reckon you want to go at least a 15 on the front, this will give you 15/40, depends how much more arm stretching you want, if you want more go with a 42 or 43 on the rear, any more you will need a larger chain.

The cans are a bit time consuming, but well worth the effort in the end, here is mine fitted to my 04 factory track bike, the picture is on it's side so the bike can get used to it:pirate

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y61/smokinrsvr/?action=view&current=MOV01946.flv

DAZ5738
05-01-2009, 07:20 AM
I have a set of Blueflame evo cans on mine, which are not the best but they sound awsome....Is this worth doing to my original cans? Would they be alot louder than the Blueflame ones??

Sprocker
05-01-2009, 07:33 AM
I finished the mod a few weeks ago and am very happy with the results. They were too loud at first, but have broken in and quieted down a bit. Still very loud, but I'm not worried about getting pulled over any more.

I got my perforated cores, adapters, rivets and silent sport muffler packing from Area P in Santa Ana. Total cost was about $170.00 :)

Excellent write up! I printed it out and used it every step of the way. I left my cats in btw. Oh and had it switched to map 2!

Here is a clip of before:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmYdbC2tmtc

Here is a clip after:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC52G69g8_M


Noooo.... don't fit the DB's they sound great now :doug

foxy
05-01-2009, 07:46 AM
Thanks for that, Badger. And I agree with Sprocker, they sound ace!

Badger
05-01-2009, 11:37 AM
glad to be of help peeps:thumbup

Redlight
05-04-2009, 09:11 AM
Here is a slightly different spin on this. I hated the peashooter appearance of the standard can exhaust opening. I also wanted to have a louder can but didnt want to go to the expense of a fully cored pipe, re-mapping and then having baffle's built.

I followed the tutorial, regarding protecting the can with tape and used the tools gloves etc.

I started by only removing the rivets from the exhaust end of the pipe. I tapped out the internals until they protruded about 2 inches from the can and cut off the decorative end as described.

http://www.rsvzone.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=197&pictureid=1153

I then cut along line 'A' with the angle grinder. The end plate with pipe 'B' then slides out of the internals. I then cut off everything to the right hand side of the line, the plate and peashooter. You are then left with a pipe about 7 inches long. With the end plate, peashooter and pipe removed, I tapped the internals back into the can. I drilled a hole through the can and internals from the underneath and used a self tapping screw to ensure the internals did not move inside the can. I put the cans back on the bike to see how loud they were.

http://www.rsvzone.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=197&pictureid=1156

You can see from this picture that with the pipe 'B' removed the exhaust gas does not circulate within the chambers and the can is practically a straight through. It was just a little too loud for me........but sounded great and attracted a little too much attention. With Pipe 'B' in, it was too quiet.
I then used pipe 'B' to make a baffle. By drilling holes in the pipe it gets progressiveley louder. After much trial and error, the best sound (and this is personal) is from 28 x 10mm holes 'C', 7 in the top, bottom, and sides. I secured the pipe to the internals with a rivet, and painted the inside with matt black exhaust paint.

http://www.rsvzone.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=197&pictureid=1155


http://www.rsvzone.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=197&pictureid=1154

Sounds great.

beechy
06-29-2009, 05:03 AM
I just went the route that Redlight suggests here and am very pleased witht the result. I happen to like the look of the OE cans but couldnt hear if bike was running or not.
I havent bothered with the 'pipe B' baffle so its more or less straight through.
I reckon as long as I burble along when in villages etc or when near officers of the law it should be OK.
Had a ride out yesterday with a dozen or so RSV's who all had aftermarket cans, most everybit as loud but TBH I like the sound of mine now. Many thanks Redlight / Badger for encouraging me down this route.
Have now got a spare pair of original 2005 cans in pretty good condition if anyone is interested (bought the pair I modded in Ebay last week in case I got overenthusiastic with the angle grinder and cocked the job up).

diabolico
07-03-2009, 12:32 PM
hi mate... recently i bought a complete 04 exhaust system for my 2000 rsv.i applyed the headers and cored the exhaust. and i must say i looooove the sound,only problem is be too loud. the tube inside,i made a cone from 70mm to 63mm. does yours make a lot of noise too? thanks

Badger
07-03-2009, 12:35 PM
It does but you can get large baffles from the Carbon Can Company, i use them in mine for quiet track days

shaymas
07-17-2009, 10:23 PM
sweet as done this to my 08 rsv factroy and sounds good posted on you tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2hX_vdPYnU thanks for the info

Steve7r
02-10-2010, 08:24 AM
Just fitted some cored cans to my '04 factory... sounds great but yep they are loud.

now im worried about failing noise tests at trackdays. Does anyone have any db readings with cored cans? Have any of you passed noise tests at track days or have you had to fit db killers?

Thanks
Steve

Mini_Me
02-10-2010, 08:48 AM
I also have a set of cored cans (cored with 2.5" pipes).

Really m8, there is NO WAY that cored cans will pass any noise test. (unless the test requires a lot of noise....).

You can however use the old internals to make a a baffle. (the old nozzle that is still attached to the internals can serve as a baffle.).

deadhand
02-10-2010, 09:27 AM
Yeah cored cans won't pass noise for tracks that have limits.

I just bought a 2nd set of stock cans for track days. With a power commander, you can hae your shop set your map back to the stock setting before the track day. Costs me little or nothing for my shop to do.

Lucek
05-12-2011, 01:05 AM
Redlight

for the baffle, did you use the whole B pipe? or did you shorten it?
and the little plate that the rivet goes through is it a part of the A-line plate?

BTW
i MUST put in the baffles!
it sounds awful. no bass at all. it sounds as if the can was empty inside :angry

Lucek
05-13-2011, 06:16 AM
done

i made baffles from these on the right hand side. no holes in them.
IMO they look better from the back.
and they sound better. way better. it's still not what i wanted but satisfactory for me.
i think at that redlight's option it's difficult to gain deep bass sound as the cans are too empty inside.
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/6907/12052011001b.th.jpg (http://img96.imageshack.us/i/12052011001b.jpg/)
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/8117/12052011.th.jpg (http://img846.imageshack.us/i/12052011.jpg/)

shenbigbin
08-12-2011, 05:31 PM
Once this is removed you will see the cat (honeycombed part) which is a pain to remove, the platinum is bloody hard stuff

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